First Hard Hike of 2018

Brauneck is a mountain for the heart. I don’t mean your sappy soul; I mean that muscle pumping in your chest that will be in your throat by the time you’ve hiked halfway up this steep mountain. This is our fourth or fifth time here. It’s only 12-15 pop songs away from Munich depending on […]

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First “Easy” Hike of 2018

Everywhere the sound of mountains thawing. The waterline in the reservoir is frighteningly low, we assume to make room for the water raging down from above, gurgling all around us. It’s a warm day in the middle of April. And the place is almost deserted. We go left around theSchlegeisspeichersee (Schlegeis reservoir), home to one […]

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Thirteen Days of Hiking on Corsica — Cascades de Purcaraccia

The deceptively easy path near the start of the trailIf you’re headed to the mountains on Corsica, chances are you’ll happen upon Bocca di Larone, a popular starting point for several of hikes. You’ll at least drive by it on your way to Col de Bavella, the starting point of our second hike to the […]

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Thirteen Days of Hiking on Corsica — The Tavignano Valley

You will no doubt remember my first tip from our first day of hiking on Corsica: Book your accommodation as close to your hiking destination as possible to avoid the notoriously slow traffic on the main roads. So for our third day of hiking we set out for Corte, 87k to the north of our […]

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Thirteen Days of Hiking on Corsica — Tizzano to Cala di Conca

The few weeks before I left for Corsica, my French clients assured me that I’d probably die in a forest fire set by a crazy arsonist. And if I didn’t meet this fate, I’d certainly be shot or at least shot at. All the road signs, they said, are riddled with bullet holes. So of […]

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Why the Gods Have Great Bums

The sunset from our hotel in PrairanoThere’s nothing I like more than hiking. Call it trekking, call it tramping, call it treading the path unbeaten–whatever you call it, please keep it coming. Actually, could someone send me a t-shirt that says I’D RATHER BE HIKING across the front? In black please. I’ve hiked in South […]

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Finding a Clearing

Lately. It’s been so difficult to clear my head. To make way for new ideas. To find a clearing. And there are so many reasons for this. I’ve started teaching at a language institute again, which means my mind has to prepare itself for new classes, new people, new situations every single day. There doesn’t […]

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A November Hike at Aachensee in Austria

Friday, we–and you know when I say “we” I always mean Oscar the Carpaccio Pounder because I don’t plan things, right?–so, we planned a spur-of-the-moment trip to Austria. We drove to Aachensee, just across the German border into Austria, then we hiked all the way to Gramaialm from the parking lot in Pertisau. When I […]

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On the Bee-ducational Path at Pillersee

Yesterday evening our neighbors came home after a family bike ride all bundled up in warm jackets and scarves, hats and gloves. I was standing there at my door barefoot in shorts and a not-very-clean T-shirt. “Um,” they said collectively. “What.” The only thing missing from my summer-fun gear was an umbrella-ed drink, sunglasses and […]

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The Last Rays of Summer

Every year around this time, Otto the Bavarian Zookeeper and I go through the same ritual. We begin to say things like “Well, Otto the Bavarian Zookeeper, this weekend will be our last opportunity to go hiking, so we should make the most of it, eh?” or “So, Otto the Bavarian Zookeeper, how about one […]

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